Plans and budgets are all very well, but reality is unpredictable. I had anticipated that our harvest would have been spread over at least 50 days. Generic information about each variety indicated large berry size. The order in which varieties were likely to ripen was formed from actual Brix measurement trends. In reality all this has to be logged as life experience. All eight Siberian varieties ripening over just 28 days. The speed at which berries went from ripe to over ripe. Variable berry size, the proportion of large to small, and how each size ripen are all critical to creating a viable harvest.
How many times have I had to remind myself that growing these varieties is a trial not a commercial crop. Every year edges it forward to becoming commercial. Every year comes with successes, but with this comes new questions. A principle achievment this year has been a collective agreement about taste.
Taste is the most important issue. This has been the first year where there has been sufficient crop to assess taste across varieties, plant ages and conditions. The one variety that is questionable is Elizaveta. For some reason the berry, although large and impressive has a slight fermented flavour. This in itself might be useful in particular product, but it could have a potential to taint other variety berries, so it will need using carefully.
A huge amount has been learnt from this harvest, but there are also many unanswered questions. Next year’s harvest is now the focus. With conventional farming there would be many sources for this information. For Siberian sea buckthorn there is only one choice but going back to source – so next month Ben and I are going to Siberia to test our thoughts on those who have been growing this crop for years.
Being able to assess each of the varieties here at Devereux farm provides understanding of the raw berry. The objective of growing the crop is to turn it into a marketable product. As a new product on the market it has to achieve immediate impression. Consistent quality in flavour, colour, function is essential. Taste has to inspire to become a credible ingredient in recipies and products.
While there has to be focus on clarity of the issues that arose from this last harvest, there must be equal importance put on what to do with it.
As soon as the berry is picked it has to be handled with care to capture and retain its quality. Storage has technical options that can influence how to transfer this quality from bush to product. Once again, there is little or no experience in developing the best system to achieve the sea buckthorn product that is best suited to the UK market.
Investing in equipment therefore has to find a flexible line to adapt to future needs. Scale will soon outmode what is bought for the purpose now. The crop will grow in yield and we will improve out harvesting efficiency. Growing multiple varieties creates challenges in itself as each has its own quality parameters that need to be managed and brought into the context of delivering a consistent product to the market.
This autumn and winter’s diary is filling fast with tasks that need to be achieved. Until now investment has been moderate and in small tranches. The farm has been able to absorb this new enterprise into its cashflow without issue. The coming phase will require a new level of finance in buildings, infrastructure, equipment and ultimately new staff.
This comes at a time when the UK is entering the Brexit negotiations. Regardless of personal views on the subject this is unsettling. The reality with this whole subject is as unpredictable as our growing sea buckthorn. The difference is that a poor outcome will impact on the economic wellbeing of our internal market. Confidence is difficult to find when there are uncertainties and instability. Finding finance will become more difficult. Finding markets for new product will require additional levels of faith, trust and belief.
Our core business of the rest of the farm will also need to assess its future. 50% of the farm has been managed as conservation land to enhance the neighbouring Hamford Water National Nature reserve for over ten years. Predicting future agricultural policy for the UK is impossible until the results of Brexit are delivered. This conservation land has become part of the ethos of the farm. Developing habitat and biodiversity is not something that can be switched on and off at will. We are told that this is important to the government at the moment, but if access to markets changes and the demand for home grown food changes then all this might change.
Climate change is a reality we now live with. Every winter the risk of surge tides overtopping our sea walls rises. Sea level rise and increased winter storminess come with this. We are all aware of extreme weather events becoming part of life. Extreme though these are, they are natural events and therefore accepted as part of life. The variables brought about by political and economic events are somehow less easy to accept as they should be more manageable.
But life is about opportunities and although political tensions are sometimes worrying they are only a distraction from the need to keep focused on one’s own future.
Growing sea buckthorn is something this farm is committed to and 2017 has been another positive year in its development. 2018 will become formative in the future of the whole enterprise.
