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A new year, a new start, a new future.

Sea buckthorn was first planted at Devereux farm in 2009. At that time there was no experience with commercial varieties in the UK.  Through international reputation the best varieties available were Siberian, with German , Scandinavian and Canadian as options. By forming a partnership with the Incrops unit at the University of East Anglia a collaboration agreement was made resulting in the importation of 10 different varieties of Siberian varieties – projected to be larger berried, sweeter in taste, heavier in yield and higher in nutritional value. Between 2009 and 2015 around 5000 plants were established imported from Russia, Latvia, Finland and Germany.

The interest in sea buckthorn came from its long history in providing health benefit to animals and humans. Growing a new crop is risky. It was said at the time of starting it would take at least 20 years to develop the right varieties, harvesting methods, product and marketing development. Part of the risk is not knowing whether the plants will adapt to our soils and climate. The first outcome of the project has been having to accept that Siberian plants have adapted to our climate, but by changing their growing habits. They now go dormant in mid October; break their first buds at the end of December and pollinate in early March.  In early March the weather will be both windy and wet. For a wind pollinated plants this results in pollen being wildly distributed away from the male plants and much of it lost to the wider environment, resulting in few berries establishing – too few to have commercial value, but enough to provide a feed for the local birdlife.

The Latvian varieties, Sunny, Goldrain, Mary and Tatjana have all done well. They ripen in late July with large berries yielding around 3-5 kg per bush. Planted in 2015 they have provided crops since 2019, but now need a substantial prune. This last year (2025) the prolonged drought resulted in these varieties ripening inconsistently, with unripe, ripe and over ripe berries on the same bush at the same time. The berries were smaller than usual and it was decided not to harvest, leaving branches viable for harvest 2026.

In 2009 we planted seven different German varieties ( Dorana, Frugana, hergo, Askola, Leikora, Habego and Sirola) as a trial. Of these for various reasons the first four of these varieties have been discounted for commercial use. In 2025 Sirola, as an early variety was brilliant. Thee german plants are now large and not pruned back every year. The result is a heavy crop that repeats each year. Sirola has a red tinged colour with a good flavour and ripens in early August. This was followed by Habego and leikora. Also yielding well, but ripening 10 days later than normal possibly due to the drought condition. It has to be said that irrigation would be possible, but we try to ensure the flavour of the berry remains a priority and irrigation might literally dilute this, which customers probably would not want. The penalty risks a lower yield, but as in much of the food industry – taste is king.

So to the future.

2009 is a long time ago. The main area of the Devereux farm orchard is Siberian which does not produce a crop. The harvesting process is reliant upon cutting branches and freezing them in a cold store set at between -20 to – 25 deg C. This process allows the berries to be knocked off without damage so works well. The energy costs however are very high. To justify these costs the orchard needs a larger crop. New plants take four years to establish. The drought in 2025 resulted in a small crop. The government proposal to charge inheritance tax to farms when they move from one generation to another, created a very real question as to whether the whole farm had a viable future at all. As I approach my 70th birthday, it seemed that the time was coming to give up the sea buckthorn.

While all these issues were starting to create a decision to close down the Devereux farm sea buckthorn an approach came from another farm to collaborate in a two year research project looking into how to use sea buckthorn leaf as a product. Sea buckthorn leaf has been the subject of research in Europe and Asia for over a decade.

University based research has indicated it has both anti-microbial and antiviral properties. The leaf has been shown to have value when fed to young animals as its antimicrobial properties reduce infections, gut problems and improve the uptake of nutritional value from feed resulting in better growth rates and lower mortality. The leaf, when used as a tea has become valued in lowering infection from viral diseases.

Harvesting leaf as a single crop has been investigated but there is no harvesting system developed as yet. Leaf is however a byproduct of the berry harvest. Adding value to any crop through using wasted byproducts is always a valued proposition.

This collaboration proposal has come from a high profile farm which has skilled management with a capacity to make this project work. It also provides a new impetus  to invest in new plants and a longer term future for Devereux farm. Added to this, the news just before Christmas that the government was adjusting the inheritance tax rules for smaller farms makes the future look positive.

So 2026 starts well – the latvian plants are gong to have a substantial prune which will rejuvenate them for a new ten year cropping cycle. The Siberian plants that have been allowed to return to nature offering a wildlife refuge will be partially opened up to provide resource for the leaf project.  The new project will have a partner in Germany and already I am planning for new planting areas that will provide that larger crop to build the sea buckthorn enterprise for the future.

The future is bright.

Thank you for your interest in sea buckthorn.

 

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Christmas is here again

As 2025 drifts away it has been another year of issues for farming.

Back in the government budget of autumn 2024 the chancellor brought inheritance tax to farming to become real in April 2026. Tax rises that do not impact on you as an individual will not have personal importance. IHT imposed on farmers is sucking the life blood out of farming. For small family farms it means if the farm is to continue to pass from one generation to the next almost all profit needs to be saved to pay inheritance tax, rather than be reinvested in the farm. This is a complete disincentive for a new generation to view their future in farming as productive or credible.  In 2016, leaving the EU meant the end of EU farm subsidies. Farm profitability has traditionally been low, and these subsidies maintained profitability to allow for ongoing investment in machinery and land management. The conservative government brought out their 25 year environmental plan in 2018, introducing new environmental schemes to encourage habitat creation and management. Some farmers chose this route, others decided that growing food is what land is for and pressed on with making their land profitable through food production.  Scale is what made this possible – the larger the farm, the greater the ability to spread expensive machinery costs over more acres producing food. As we all know the Russian invasion of Ukraine drove up energy and fuel costs. It also pushed up fertiliser prices for farms. The government increase in national insurance and living wage rates fuelled rising costs in all industries further driving up costs. Profit is essential so that business can invest in its future. Cutting investment increases the age of machinery which increases maintenance costs. It reduces efficiency as the tools of the trade break through wear and tear.

Farming is an industry like any other, but it has to work in the natural environment and its crops are reliant upon good weather; the right levels of rainfall; seasons that deliver a balance of growing conditions through the year. Climate change is messing with this. On my farm we had diggers and dumper trucks working in November to create scrapes – which are large shallow ponds. As our farm is on the coast with the sea all around us, it is important for local wildlife to provide freshwater. As we are also next to a 5000 acre national nature reserve we try to provide essentail needs for the wildlife that migrate to, and live in this reserve. Digging new scrapes is a good positive thing to do – but we should not be able to be digging them in November. The ground should be wet, drenched by winter rain. But last November the ground was hard and dry allowing these projects to carry on.  The issue is that we had a couple of named storms in January, but then from February to October we had little or no rain. This is the reality of a changing climate.  The seasons are no longer reliable. Our soil is heavy clay, which helps to hold moisture, but for many farmers on light soils this was a disaster. You can imagine what this means. If you cannot rely on the weather, you cannot rely on a good crop. A poor crop equals the costs of growing are more than the sale of the crop.

For sea buckthorn this year my latvian varieties that should have ripened for harvest in July refused to ripen fully, resulting in some under ripe, some ripe and over overripe on the same berry clump. These plants are now 10 years old and need a good prune this winter to rejuvenate new growth. Of all varieties Sirola provided the best berries in late August, with leikora ad habego following. Many berries were small so I did not harvest them resulting in a crop one third the size of normal.   The lack of rain throughout the year did not fill the berries.  As I approach my 70 th birthday in 2026 I had every intention to retire from sea buckthorn, however a potential partnership project has developed which, if it gets funding will commit the farm to two years of research. This research will look at using sea buckthorn leaf as much as berry. Leaf makes a tea which some research is indicating provides anti-viral properties. Leaf used for livestock feeds provides young animals and birds with anti-microbial benefit reducing mortality in young while also increasing growth rates. Much work has been done abroad but not here in the UK and this is an exciting project. Alongside it comes some opportunity to use new varieties with the potential to plant them in a revolutionary planting format. Like all research the potential to achieve commercial success relies on the amount of investment involved, but these potential first steps offer a new opportunity to those interested in agroforestry and novel crops.

So another year is approaching and with it the anticipation for the 2026 crop. As from October rains are starting I hope and look forward to a new year with more predictable seasonal weather that will provide both quality and quantity of these wonderful sea buckthorn berries.

Happy Christmas and a happy, healthy new year to you all.

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2024 – Another year – another crop

The first concept of growing sea buckthorn at Devereux farm was in 2006. As a coastal farm with experience of tidal flooding in the past there was talk of the risks posed by climate change driven sea level rise. We wanted to find a new crop that would need less land with value added product potential.  18 years later, the threat of sea level rise is not an issue, but the rate of coastal erosion on the shore of our farm at Walton has doubled in the last decade, from 1.5m/year to 3.5m/yr. This is a gradual but irreversible process of losing land to the sea. It is a result of increased extreme weather events and storms in winter. It means that the term living with the sea is becoming ever more real.

Every farm around the country has become more conscious of the importance of soil quality and how much it can improve crop yields, while also delivering wider biodiversity. Agrochemicals have delivered improved crop yields since the 1940s, but it has been at the expense of soil health and damage to the vast diversity of life that contributes to delivering the minerals so important to growing healthy crops. Farming works in long cycles and this year we decided that the time had come for radical change that would help lower the impact of flood risk to the farm as well as starting to allow our soils to recover.

In the farm office there has been a book that was bought years ago, but now has great resonance for our future. Originally published in 1898, this copy came from the 1940s and was probably belonged to my grandfather. Written by Robert Elliot, it is called the Clifton Park System of farming and explains how using multiple grass varieties alongside deep rooting herbs it is possible to make the soil work hard to produce crops with minimal artificial inputs. The concept is simple, but it makes complete sense and so it has become the concept which drove the idea to stop arable crop farming at Walton and put all the fields down to grass as herbal leys and allow the soils to recover. In looking for improving soil health, it also made perfect sense to remove the use of any agrochemicals. Establishing any crop, whether arable or grass always looks to the control of weeds. In accepting that agrochemicals will impact on rebuilding the life in the soils, it was also clear that going organic would provide the discipline that would remove those chemicals from the system. So our farm at Walton has gone organic.

What has this to do with sea buckthorn? The issue is that the new organic farm project is taking up a lot of time and the sea buckthorn project is not a large enterprise that can justify employing help. It has proved to be a difficult crop to grow, its future is in the balance – but as this year we have a crop – we are carrying on. Giving up would be a difficult decision having invested years in trying.

Growing sea buckthorn has been a roller coaster of a project. At first the concept of growing Siberian sea buckthorn varieties seemed the best way forward. The Russian varieties had large yields; big berries; good taste and the plants have few thorns. We have several thousand plants in the ground. The problem has been that in moving them from the extreme climate of Siberia to the mild climate on the Essex coast they have adapted to our climate. This has been gradual but has resulted in crop failure. In 2017 the whole field was covered in berries. Since then, every year they have adapted to our climate by adjusting the period of their pollination. It has moved back earlier and earlier in the year. This has now reached the first week of March when the weather is poor, and the impact on a wind pollinated crop is critical. Poor pollination means a poor crop. So the Siberian plants have now been abandoned.

In 2015 we planted Latvian varieties. These use the same male pollinators we used for the Siberian plants, but the crop matures a month later than the Siberian varieties. The four varieties Goldrain, Sunny, Tatjana and Mary all produced well. With large berries, great taste and good yields these took over from the Siberian plants. In 2023 the crop failed. All it could be put down to was a lack of sunshine to ripen the berries. This year, the progressive rain looked as if there would be a repeat of last year’s issue – but no – we have a crop and it is good. This has been limited to the Goldrain and Sunny. Mary and Tatjana have not cropped well for three years. The plants need a serious prune to let light back into the rows. This will impact on next year’s crop but it should mean a good result for 2026.

So we have some new crop berries for 2024, ready for sale now.

Last year the prices came down reflecting the quality of what was on offer. Electricity costs and other costs rose dramatically, so this year they are coming back up to where they were two years ago.

The courier packaging we switched to in 2023 was a cardboard based system allowing a move away from polystyrene. The cardboard system works when the ambient temperature is low. Small berries tend to thaw fast. The cardboard system has struggled to stop the berries from thawing particularly with smaller orders. Pre-covid couriers offered a guaranteed delivery time, which allowed for fast delivery.  This is now no longer an option when sending perishable goods. So we have to take the risk when sending our berries.

I am going to go back to polystyrene boxes for the summer as it is a more reliable system, and will use a more sustainable packaging option as soon as the right.

Thank you for your interest in our sea buckthorn.

David

 

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Planting for the future

The past is for learning from; the present to act on that knowledge and the future tests the actions taken.

The 22 German, Latvian, Finnish and Siberian varieties of sea buckthorn here at Devereux farm have tested which are the ones that we believe in for the future.  2023 will see the start of planting new orchards.

Over the past ten years, experience is what drives our ideas. In 2014 we had a shocking infection in the young plants impacting on 40% of the Siberian plants. As the plants matured the problem has not re-occured. In 2017 these plants were full of berries, but gradual adaptation of these plants to our climate shifted their wind pollination into March. The weather in march being wet and windy has neutralised this process resulting in only a small crop in 2022.

Birds were not a problem for that 2017 crop. But as years have gone by and local wildlife recognised this new feedstock in the landscape they have grown to be a bigger issue year by year. When the crop is large, we can afford to share it with the birds. But when the crop is small they take every berry. In 2022, the high temperatures and extended drought also drove the birds to want to eat the berries even before they were ripe. So looking forward to the future if we are going to be successful we have to manage this problem.

With summer 2022 taking temperatures to a UK record 40 deg C. climate change is a factor that will impact on growing sea buckthorn. It is resilient and grows in extreme conditions, but we should not look at all sea buckthorn as being the same. Across the world there are different species and subspecies that have adapted to these conditions.  Here at Devereux farm our clay soils are not ideal. In winter these soils become waterlogged, particularly as with climate change heavy rain events are becoming the norm.

Summer 2022 with its long dry drought resulted in a small crop of smaller berries, which the birds decimated.  We started planting sea buckthorn in 2009. We now have enough experience for the next phase of our sea buckthorn project. The loss of the 2022 crop triggered the decision that now is the time to select the varieties that have potential and replant in orchards designed to optimise pollination; reduce bird damage; accomodate the impacts of drought. Solving these issues will deliver consistent crops for our customers.

What does all this mean to our customers?

Losing almost 90% of the 2022 crop means our freezers are almost empty with the last of our frozen berries to be sold-out this month.

The new plants that we use to replant our organic orchards will take four years to mature to fruit.

There will be a small crop coming from the plants we are retaining available from harvest each year, but the supply will be limited until the new plants develop.

In order to be able to carry on supplying berries through the year after our home grown have run out it seemed to make sense to source berries from our sea buckthorn plant suppliers. These would be organic and of the same varieties as we have been growing and will be growing in the future.  So the sad issue that last summer’s crop was a disaster, will not mean that we cannot continue to supply customers with organic whole sea buckthorn berry. I hope that you will appreciate this situation. We will have new crop berries available from our own plants in mid July.

In the meantime there is a lot more happening at Devereux farm. Living next to the Hamford water National Nature Reserve the farm has long been managed to provide habitat for wildlife. In fact over the past year, bird counts have logged 198 different species. The habitat areas are managed in agreement with Natural England, with our arable crops grown within them. As we look at sea buckthorn with a eye to climate change and its impact on the future, so we also see the farm needing to change.

Although it is a busy time ahead with the sea buckthorn, the decision has also been taken to convert the whole of the rest of the farm to organic as well. This brings the whole ethos of what we do into one.

In writing this blog I am aware that I stopped blogging a while back, but with all this change it seems the right time to start and deliver a weekly update on what is going on. It is truly going to be a busy year as there has just been announced the ninth annual conference of the International Sea buckthorn Association is to be held in Thessaloniki, Greece in May. Greece is the country from which the origin name of sea buckthorn (Hippophae)  comes – confirming its 2000 year old history and the ongoing appreciation of its natural health benefits.

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A healthy environment.

2023 is here, what will this mean?

At Devereux farm, we are lucky enough to work in the countryside – a place that inspires everything we do.

On my early walk this morning I passed a special tree in our garden. It was one of the reasons why we bought our house in 1996. Back then, the tree was around 350 years old. It was a massive turkey oak – tall, broad – with low sweeping branches, it was however coming to the end of its life.

Tragedy struck at the Millenium on January 1st 2000, when this grand old tree fell, crashing to the ground. It presented a sad spectacle.

Over the next three years, seven saplings grew from one of its surviving roots.

Most in shape were similar to a standard oak tree, but one had the character of the old tree with wide low branches. It provided an opportunity and hope that something would come back from the old tree.

21 years after the old tree fell, that sapling is as tall in feet as it is old,  spreading out just as the old tree did – a vision of new growth from old.

I read this morning that 2022 is being described as a “permacrisis” – a year characterised by multiple issues.

As I walked passed the tree this morning it made me reflect that for all the global issues in the world, most have solutions. For us at Devereux farm, we need to reflect that it is our environment that is in permacrisis, and recognising this will provide the solution to it.

Our solution cannot be one created in a single year. Sea buckthorn orchards take five years to bring to maturity. Converting our whole farm to organic looks to a twelve year soil management cycle. Reshaping fields with new hedges and tree copses. Improving water storage and ponds for crops and wildlife.  Our plans all focus on sustainability. New orchards producing fruit quality our customers said they want – all this takes time. There have to be short term goals. using only fully recyclable packaging; investing in renewable energy; partnering with those that bring innovation and ensure quality to our future.

Partners are crucial. The most important are our customers. Without customers we do not have a reason to exist. Customers are all individuals with personality, needs, expectations and desires.

A challenging vision – but a holistic one recognising a healthy environment is the key to a healthy future.

And then to the most important partner. Our customers are the one’s that can make this possible.

Happy new year

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Goodbye 2022 – Happy Christmas and may 2023 be full of hope.

Goodbye 2022 – Christmas is approaching and it is a time for reflection and promise of better things to come.

This year we saw temperatures in the UK soar to 40 deg. C. It came within a long summer drought. There have been droughts before, but the high temperature signposted a climate change issue for the future.

On the land, drought impacts deep into the soil. Soil is the heart of the countryside. Above ground we focus on plants and trees, but below ground we have little knowledge of a complex world from which our crops – and our food, comes from. It is silent and unseen, but it is vibrant; active and diverse. It provides the nutrients for our plants. It can be used as an asset to improve the quality of our food; store and control the water from rainfall; be the backbone that delivers the health of all things in the countryside.

Within the complex world that we live, we choose how to manage our lives. As farmers, science has directed us to use chemicals to control pests and increase crop yields that can be delivered at lower cost. 40 deg C this summer was a signpost of climate change. It can be logged as a statistic, or reflected on as to its meaning.

Decisions one takes on a personal basis. For me, as a farmer – and grower of sea buckthorn, the 40 deg statistic I see as a threat that will dry up my soils, crops, grass for livestock, habitat for wildlife. I see it as a challenge and an opportunity for change.

My son, Ben, suggested I should go to an agricultural event this summer called Groundswell.  I had not been before and was not prepared for the outcome.

It was a dynamic show, full of enthusiastic people with innovation at the front of their thinking. Agriculture is often portrayed as full of aging farmers with few people joining the industry. Here at Groundswell was inspiration. Inspiration that was real, creative and active. A signpost for me that taking up the opportunity for change is worthwhile.

So what was the outcome?

Back in the summer, the drought had had a profound impact on the sea buckthorn. This year our Siberian plants produced berries – but long before they were ripe, thirsty wildlife striped the plants of the crop. Our Latvian plants, which have been reliable were stressed by lack of water. Their crop was small and later ripening varieties had almost no crop. Our german varieties ripened earlier than usual, but the berries were small.

I have not installed irrigation as up until now the plants have not needed it, and water is a precious resource that if overused can fill fruit with water and dilute nutritional quality. This season’s drought and high temperature indicates that if high temperatures are coming with climate change, then we have to change the ways we farm.

So as 2022 comes to an end, with the war in Ukraine still waging. With high energy and inflation impacting into everything we do – 2022 has to be the year to trigger change.

The decision therefore has been to change the way we farm. We are going organic. I do not say this lightly. It means a huge change needing new skills, new machinery, new buildings, new crops, new ways of manging our precious soil. It is daunting to be doing this at a time of economic instability, but that will ease. But I do not believe climate change will ease. Going organic is a long term project – 10, possibly 12 years to regaining the vibrancy of our soils. A long time, but it is no longer than it has taken to understand how to grow sea buckthorn.

And the sea buckthorn – what of it? What to do? We are lucky that the European sea buckthorn growers are, like those at groundswell, a dynamic group. There have been three on-line conferences providing the opportunity to share knowledge.

So like the farm – for sea buckthorn at Devereux farm – 2022 is a time for change. Time to decide which varieties have been successful and which not. Time to decide on how to lay out orchards that provide for a crop that can thrive in an extreme, changing climate.

So many old plants are going to be pulled up and replanted with new. With varieties that produce the fruit that we believe our customers like best.

Without customers we would not have a purpose. I find that our customers – like those attending groundswell, they know what they want. Many have a desire for the sea buckthorn they ate in other countries. Many understand this special fruit for its taste; its nutritional quality; its potential to inspire new culinary innovation.

So as 2022 comes to an end, I look forward to 2023 with a passion for change. Change that I hope will provide a future for our soil; our countryside; our crops and providing something special for our customers.

As you have now read this, the chances are you are one of our customers, if not you will have an interest in sea buckthorn. For both reasons may I thank you and wish you too, a happy Christmas and let us hope that 2023 brings stability and peace to a world that has many issues to solve.

Happy Christmas

One last thing – I am afraid that last orders for sea buckthorn berries has to be drawn to a close for 2022.

LAST ORDERS WILL BE ON DECEMBER 19th for delivery on DECEMBER 20th.

2023 I will be writing a short blog each week as our new farm emerges – new orders for sea buckthorn berries will start in January.

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR SUPPORT IN 2022.